You will rarely if ever see them come out above ground. I will tell you ahead of time that as slings, these 2 species are gonna be big time burrowers. If you are looking for a blue tarantula that is a "pet hole" and is a New World species if you decide to pass up keeping the Cobalt Blue ( Haplopelma lividum/Cyriopagopus lividus), and you think you might be up for the challenge, you could consider either Pterinopelma sazimai or Pseudhapalopus sp. Very manageable temperament wise, very very hardy, and is less of a pet hole than a C. Though i do recommend you starting with a Ceratogyrus spp for your first old world.
And no amount of video watching will really get you "prepared" because only through experience can you keep your cool and gain your confidence when working with a really2 bolty and bitey T.īut everything aside, if you really are confident of your own abilities, and you've really done your research and are prepared for the consequences, go get it man! Because everyone has to start somewhere. And rehousing/refilling the waterdish with old world species are much more "thrilling" than with your average new world. There's a bit of a learning curve in keeping the substrate moist but not too moist yet also giving the enclo enough ventilation, just enough that it doesn't dry out too quickly. lividusĪnd care wise, A chalcodes is FAR more easier to take care of than a C.
Nhandu spp are big beautiful, and defensive, and you'll see a lot more action with a Nhandu than you ever will with a C. And as other keepers have said, it's wise ro start off with a NW that's much more defensive/jumpy before jumping into old worlds. darlingi (bless his soul) and i only got him after having a reasonable amount of time and experience with a bunch of other people's old world Ts. It depends on how long you've been in the hobby and how much experience you actually have with spiders. Before you get any other tarantula, ESPECIALLY AN OLD WORLD ANYTHING, you need to discuss this at length and honestly with the authorities within your home. They’re pretty cheap and readily available, so they’re not going anywhere. murinus, get the husbandry basics down (it won’t take long), and snag C. Summing up, get a more forgiving, more mature fossorial specimen, e.g., E.
#Blue cobalt tarantula full#
Figuring this out takes experience that is best gained by an more established specimen as slings are more vulnerable to mistakes, which takes the discussion full circle back to dealing with a more mature specimen, if just to get it from the shipping container into the enclosure, and some more established fossorials can be “ready to go” (as in throw down) when you open their shipping containers. This may be of no serious threat to the animal itself, but it can foster all kind of flora and fauna that you do not want in any enclosure. Or, even if it’s not wet, it can be too moist. I have seen some photos where the moisture isn’t moist, but wet substrate. lividus, there is a learning curve on how moist. However, for someone new to moisture dependent species like C. chalcodes are desert species, the only moisture consideration is a bottle cap with some water in it, and you can let that slide for extended periods of time with no adverse effects. One should also take into consideration the experience of basic husbandry for Asian fossorials. I would also add that, aside from the nature of the animal, and rehousing considerations (although I am of the school of thought that this can be circumvented by placing a fossorial sling in its permanent enclosure form the start). If you decide you no longer want tarantulas in a month or two, it is a lot easier to responsibly rehome an A.
Lastly, for new keepers, I think it is a good idea to verify that your interest in keeping tarantulas is long-term before getting into the hot species. murinus, you'll have a better idea of how things can go wrong and what to do about it.) lividus on YouTube and doing it yourself are two different things. This is particularly true when it comes to rehousing a fast, defensive tarantula. Starting with the beginner-friendly species allows you to master the basics of care (especially rehousing) and develop good habits with species that are more forgiving.ĭoing research is commendable, but research is not always a substitute for firsthand experience. We all make beginner's errors when we are new, and it's best to make those errors with hardy species that are slower, less defensive, and less venomous. If being prepared to keep Cyriopagopus lividus is your ultimate goal, you might try keeping some of the feistier New World species, such as Ephebopus murinus (which is also fossorial). Click to expand.I would not recommend it if your only experience is Aphonopelma chalcodes.
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